Although they say it's the journey that matters and not the destination, I, too, had my doubts. I'd backpacked extensively across Europe from Finland to Greece and Ireland to Bulgaria and collected passport stamps at a dizzying rate. That was until I heard about Spain's Camino de Santiago. And what a difference that trip made.
If your idea of exploring Europe is already met by a "been there, done that" response, think again. There's a unique option whose concept started long before the advent of EurRail passes and city-a-day college party tours. Try walking all or part of the Camino de Santiago across northern Spain for an intimate, at-your-own-pace exploration of a country steeped in magnificent beauty, art, and history.
Traveling the "Way of St. James" originated over a thousand years ago when pilgrims or peregrinos from throughout Europe set off from their homelands toward the edge of then-known world and Santiago de Compostela. They came in search of miracles, as penance, or in devotion to St. James the Apostle who is entombed in the cathedral. Pilgrims in those early days, who included even royalty and popes, faced bandits, extreme illness, wolves, difficult river crossings and dangerous encounters with the Moors. Fortunately today those challenges no longer exist, allowing millions to make this journey with much less life-threatening hardship.
Many begin their odyssey from St.-Jean-Pied-de-Port just across the French border in the rugged Pyrenees, or in Roncesvalles on the Spanish side. In either, you can register and obtain a Pilgrim's credencial that identifies you as a peregrino and allows you to stay in albergues or refugios, those hostels with bunk beds or modest inns along this 500-mile path.
Each day you set out in the cool early morning air either alone, in couples, or a group, depending on your inclination. Hey, this is no guided tour. Everyone sets their own pace shepherded by well-marked arrows or signposts. This well-worn path wends its way through vineyards overflowing with grapes ready for harvest, among apple and pear orchards, across fields thickly scented with thyme, past a checkerboard of fresh vegetables, then over the desolate, windswept meseta or plateau. It climbs thousands of feet to secluded mountain Brigadoons, such as El Cebreiro with its traditional Celtic round stone houses. Then it descends to tree-lined Galician pastures dotted with hórreos, those elaborate grain storage bins resting on stilts.
Setting out at an easy-going pace with my ultra-light eleven-pound backpack, I trekked only twelve miles at first, reaching a comfortable public albergue in the early afternoon. These simple inns are located in unusual settings, from historic 16th century convents to hospitals run today by the Knights of Malta to modern prefab complexes run by volunteers. All provide basic dormitory-style bunk bed accommodations and showers. Many even include common kitchens, laundry facilities or Internet-connected computers. So never fear, you're never further out of touch than you choose. They hold 20-800 travelers each night. (So bring earplugs.) Charges are modest, from a simple donation to $6-8 a night. Bedding is usually not provided, so it's a good idea to bring a sleeping bag.
It wasn't until a few days later that I began to slowly increase my distance to twenty miles each day or more-but then again, that was my choice. You set your own pace.
How long does it take? Perhaps, as little as 26-30 days if you plan to do it in one stretch. Or take as long as you wish. Many hike two weeks one year and two the next. Bicyclists typically spend two weeks whizzing along the trail. But it's always essential to carry as little as needed
So who walks the Camino de Santiago today? Thousands of students and travelers of every age come from around the world. In just one typical year, there were over 25,000 folks from seventy-two countries. They trek the Camino year round, but July and August are very crowded and hot, with no shade in many sections of the trail. I strongly recommend May-June or September treks. The weather is better and the crowds are fewer. Fall temperatures range from 80 to 40 degrees (F), and winters can be quite cold with snow. Plan on rain any time of year, but especially in verdant Galicia, Spain's equivalent to our Pacific Northwest.
During my first Camino experience in 1999 and again this past summer, I met a virtual UN of peregrino travelers, ranging from twenty-something students to a good-humored school administrator in his sixties who hiked nearly a thousand miles from Dijon, France. I was amazed to meet a couple in their 70s who'd hiked and biked from Holland and was impressed to see a pilgrim with MS on a specially-designed bicycle.
What attracts folks to the Camino? For many, it is the solitude, simplicity and chance to simply unplug, unwind and shut out the distractions of an increasingly intrusive world. For others it is a chance to meditate, search for answers, to give thanks, or find inspiration. This is the perfect venue, since it is ideally more of a walking meditation than a marathon.
For some, it is the chance to discover precious, little-seen art and architecture, such as Astorga's magnificent Bishop's Palace built by renowned architect Antonio Gaudi. It's an opportunity to stroll ancient Roman roads and appreciate twenty-arch stone bridges like the Paso Honroso, commemorating a month-long jousting tournament in 1434. Or explore 13th century castles such as the one in Ponferrada built by the Knights Templar, or the elaborate fountains, frescoes, sculpture and relics sequestered in tiny Romanesque churches along the way.
For others, it's the opportunity to take part in a rich tradition of wandering the same path in the same spirit (and earning the same aching muscles and blisters). Lasting friendships are forged as you join an international brotherhood of millions of peregrinos from over the past millennium.
Whatever the reason for your personal journey, one lasting highlight is Spain's rich culture. If you're lucky, you might arrive in a village during their version of the running of the bulls, or during a Saint's Day festival, as I did in Puenta la Reina, aglow with savory cuisine, great local wine, traditional costumes, serenades from street musicians and concerts in the plaza.
Or explore traditional delicacies, from the wonderful selection of rustic chorizo (sausage) and hearty sheep cheeses of the distinctive Basque region to Portomarin's enormous almond pastries, Torta de Santiago, decorated with sword and shepherd's staff. Discover the delicious variety of affordable tapa (appetizer) bars. Experience grilled pulpo (octopus) in a rowdy pulperia. Sip delicious viño tinto wines across Rioja, Burgos and the bodegas of the Mesa, or apple cider and delicate white wines poured at arm's length into pottery saucers in Galicia. It's doubtful that you'll ever find these at home.
Whatever your motivation, friendly villagers will occasionally surprise you with a "Buena Camino!" from their modest doorstep or second floor window, or graciously fill your water bottle. Peregrinos have trod this path for a thousand years and these towns have a long tradition of hosting travelers.
When you arrive in the university city of Santiago de Compostela, whatever your personal belief, one emotionally charged finale is to attend the Peregrino Mass, featuring the world's largest incense burner, the Botafumeiro, swung back and forth across the transept by eight men. Then join the throngs in paying a visit to the Apostle St. James' tomb. Later, with your Pilgrim's Credential filled with stamps from all of your albergue stays and church visits in hand, go to the Office of Peregrinos to receive your official certificate or Compostela as proof of your journey.
Afterwards, you can relax and enjoy the culture and dining of this beautiful town, or do as I did on my most recent journey and trek another three days to Finisterre - the "end of the world" (in days before Columbus). And no, beyond there I didn't find any dragons.
It's easy to get to the trailhead, just fly to Madrid or Barcelona. Most frequent connections to Roncesvalles are through Madrid. Take a bus to Pamplona, then a bus the next day (only 1 daily) to Roncesvalles. Bus connections are also available though Barcelona. Or, fly to London and catch an inexpensive flight to Bayonne, France, not far from St.-Jean-Pied-de-Port.
As always, it is the journey that matters, not the destination. Remember this, and with any luck you'll find whatever answers you seek. As a wise man once said, "Solvitur ambulando" or "It is solved by walking." Try it for yourself and see.
For a look at other journeys, please visit http://www.PilgrimsTales.com
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